Cutting a Boxer’s nails is one of the few grooming tasks this low maintenance breed requires.
Successful nail trimming involves:
- Having the right tool
- Gradually desensitizing your dog to the process
- Doing a little bit, often
The nails in the above picture are too long. You can see that the nail has grown well past the pink quick.
Why You Must Trim Your Boxer’s Nails Regularly
Keeping your Boxer’s nails short is much more than a cosmetic issue.
Nails that are too long:
- Interfere with your Boxer’s posture
- Throw off his gait
- Can be downright painful
- Are more likely to catch on things and tear (also painful)
- Will scratch your skin
- Do a number on your floors
Making nail trims a regular part of your dog’s routine will keep him relaxed about the process, making the whole thing easier on you both.
If you only do it rarely, it’s more likely to be a scary experience that you have to reacclimate him to from square one, every time.
The best way to keep your dog’s nails short is to start when he’s a puppy, so that he’s used to it by the time he’s an adult, and doesn’t stress out when you reach for the grinder.
It’s just the same as washing a Boxer puppy: you do it not so much because he’s dirty, but so he learns how to behave appropriately during a bath.
If you’ve never cut your dog’s nails before and are starting as an adult, you may have some work to do in acclimating your dog to the experience. But with a little patience, it can be done!
Best Nail Clippers For Boxer Dogs
When it comes to nail maintenance, the key is: grind, don’t cut.
Forget nail clippers, guillotines and scissors. These devices use a blade and this is how you can accidentally cut your dog’s quick. This hurts and is the fastest way to give your Boxer (and yourself) a morbid fear of nail trimming.
This is where nail grinders come in.
With a grinder, you can’t do much damage. If you get too close it’ll feel more like a scrape than a cut and no real harm will be done.
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This Tool Will Change Your Life
We use and recommend the Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit with LED Light which is a sanding tool available from hardware stores.
This tool is heavy duty, well constructed by a quality brand and has a heap of power, letting you breeze through tough Boxer nails much faster than is possible with many of the tools “made for pets” which seem too weak and wear out without making much of a dent.
It uses a spinning cylinder covered with coarse sandpaper to file your dog’s nails at speed.
Dremel does also have a Cordless Pet Dog Nail Grooming & Grinding Tool specifically for dogs.
If Your Boxer Hates Having His Nails Cut
It might be tempting to outsource the task of trimming your dog’s nails, particularly if he puts up a struggle.
But, especially if he’s afraid of it, this is not something you need or want to have the vet do on your behalf.
Your dog will be much more comfortable having this done at home, by you.
DIY nail trimming also allows you to do a little here, a little there ..rather than having to cut every nail in the one sitting, which can be a full blown ordeal and a boatload of unnecessary stress for your dog.
Plus, mastering nail trimming yourself will save you a vet bill, and allow you to keep the nails consistently short. If you rely on the vet to do it, it’s likely your dog’s nails will spend a good deal of time too long, in between visits.
How To Teach Your Boxer To Like Having His Nails Cut
The trick is using high value treats as a reward, and not doing too much too soon.
The first few times you get out the grinder, don’t even turn it on. Just show it to your dog and let him sniff it. If he’s relaxed about it you can touch the grinder to his paws a few times, so he understands it won’t hurt him.
After a few days of doing this (or however long it takes him to be okay with it) progress to getting the grinder out and turning it on so your dog can get used to the noise.
Again, let him check the whirring device out. Be careful not to let him get so close as to touch the rotating barrel. You don’t want to grind his nose!
Once he’s comfortable with this, you’re ready to begin making contact with the nails.
Have your dog assume the down position on a stable surface. On his bed with his front paws over the edge is perfect.
Set out a plate of treats at the same time as you pick up and turn on the grinder.
Holding one nail on a front paw, very briefly touch the going grinder to the nail and immediately treat your dog.
The vibration may come as a shock, but if your dog pulls his paw away — no treat.
If this happens, wait for your dog to give you back his paw and then try again, treating if he allows brief contact between nail and grinder.
Do this a couple more times with different nails and maybe the other paw.
The aim here is not to get any real trimming done. Rather, it’s to get your dog used to the feeling of the grinder on his nail, and to teach him if he allows it, he’ll be rewarded.
Stop after two minutes and just a few successful nail touches and treats. End on a high rather than push it too far and have your dog start to fail more than he succeeds.
Do the same again the next day, and for several days after, until your dog is happy letting you briefly grind a pawful of nails.
Keep the sessions very short. This way stress is minimized and your dog may well actually want the grinding to go on longer, so he’ll get more rewards. As soon as the grinder turns off, the treats go away.
Make sure you progress to doing the rear paws as well. If your dog prefers to stand and you can get a good view of the nail this way, go ahead.
Safety note: Beware the Dremel will catch and reel in long hair. Tie yours back, as you’ll be bending over your dog to get a good look at where the quick is.
Now you’re ready to do some actual nail trimming.
Approach the task by slightly lengthening the time the grinder is in contact with each nail. Be sure to treat each time you get a little grind in. Double or triple treat when your dog does a particularly good job of not pulling his paw away.
Depending on how your dog feels about the grinder, you may only get a nail or two done per session. That’s completely fine. It’s more important at this stage to build a positive association with grinding than to get the nails cut.
If you push it by going for too many nails at once or grinding too much on one nail, you might spook your dog and set the whole process back. If this happens, give it a break for a while and then start from the beginning of the desensitization process.
Slowly build up to more nails per session and eventually you’ll be able to go around all four paws in the space of just a few minutes.
Once the routine is established, do this once a week to keep the nails the right length.
In the long run you’ll probably only need to treat after each paw is done, not each nail.
How Long Should My Boxer’s Nails Be?
Your Boxer’s nails should not touch the floor when he stands upright.
If you hear his nails clicking on the floorboards or lino when he walks, they’re too long.
Another indicator of overgrown nails is an odd posture known as the “billy goat” stance. This is when your dog stands leaning over his front legs like a goat leaning forward to compensate for standing on a steep slope.
This posture arises because your dog’s nails send him signals about where the ground is. This is known as proprioreception and is how living beings use feedback from their environment to detect where their limbs are in space.
Nails that touch the ground tell your dog that he’s walking up a hill (even though he isn’t). As a result, he automatically leans forward, as he would in order to balance his weight if he really was ascending an incline.
If his nails are too long, your dog may also display reluctance to walk or appear to limp.
Sometimes dogs that have been bed-ridden with sickness, or confined after surfery, can seem to limp or hobble once they become active again. It’s easy to assume this is due to an injury or a sore leg.
Before reaching that conclusion, check the nails and give them a trim. Without any natural wear to keep them short, it’s easy for nails to overgrow during periods of inactivity. If your dog’s been sick, you may well have forgotten about the nails while you dealt with the more urgent crisis.
Some dogs will suffer in silence, so don’t wait for your dog to show signs of discomfort before attending to his nails.
Cutting Black Boxer Dog Nails
Cutting black or brown nails is much harder than cutting transparent ones.
If your Boxer is white or has white socks, you may well be lucky enough to have clear nails.
In this case, simply shine a flash light or some sun through the nail from behind. You’ll easily be able to see where the pink quick (the nerve and blood vessel) is.
Then you’ll know you’re safe to grind down to that spot without any danger.
If the nails are black, you’ll have to go by how the nails look when your dog is standing. Grind them short enough to not touch the ground.
Once you reach that point, slow down, grinding just a little at a time before stopping. Your dog will let you know if you get too close to the quick.
If your Boxer has some clear nails and some dark ones, you can use the pale ones as a guide for where the quick will be in the others.
Overgrown Boxer Dog Nails
If it’s been a while since you trimmed your Boxer’s nails, they may well be overgrown.
The problem with letting things get to this point is that the quick itself gets long.
What this means is you won’t be able to grind the nails as short as they need to go, without hitting the quick.
The solution is to take it in stages over many weeks.
First, grind the nails as close to the quick as possible.
Then, you’ll need to train the quick to recede so you can eventually take the nails even shorter.
To achieve this, keep grinding a little every day.
If the nail length is kept right at the quick, the quick will gradually move back from the edge to protect itself, allowing you to grind a little more and a little more.
Note: Your dog may well react to this process as the vibration will feel very close to the nerve. Because it is! Lots of treats and short sessions will help.
If you persist, you’ll eventually return the nails back where they need to be. Then it’ll be just a matter of maintenance.
Don’t forget to trim your Boxer’s dew claws, if he has them on his front paws.
Because the dew claw doesn’t touch the ground, it can tend to grow very long and even curl back into the flesh. Don’t let this happen!
Long dew claws are more likely to snag on things. A detached dew claw is painful and may necessitate surgical removal.
Boxer Paw Care
While you’re trimming your Boxer’s nails, it’s a good chance to examine the paws.
Check your dog’s feet for overall health.
Be on the lookout for:
- Dried or cracked paw pads
- Grass seeds that may embed if not removed
- Paw cysts between the toes
- Redness, irritation
- A corn chip -like odor
From time to time you will need to trim the hair between the paw pads.
If it grows so long that it covers the pads, this will interfere with your dog’s grip and cause him to slip.
Considering how many dogs live on floorboards, tiles, polished concrete or other smooth, slick surfaces, this can be a real hazard.
Boxer Nails Turning Brown
If you notice a reddish-brown discoloration of the nails, this is yeast overgrowth.
Yeast lives naturally on your dog’s skin, feeding on skin oils and other secretions.
But when there’s so much yeast that it’s visible as a creeping brown stain, spreading from the nail beds along the nail … this is something you need to pay attention to.
Yeast overgrowth is an indication that your dog’s body is overburdened with waste or toxins, to the point that it’s recruited the skin to expunge the excess.
The primary eliminative organs are the kidneys and bowels (excreting toxins and other waste via pee and poop). Normally these organs, working with the liver, can handle the body’s waste.
But a variety of factors can increase the toxic load on the body, such as:
- Poor diet (like kibble)
- Ingestion of toxins like chemical wormers, flea/tick treatments
- Drugs or vaccines
- Environmental toxins eg. weedkillers, scented plugins, chemical cleaners
When this happens, the body pushes the excess wastes out via the skin, including hair follicles.
The yeast population on the surface of the body explodes in response to this abundance of metabolic waste.
In this way, the yeast (which is a single-celled fungus) is a telltale sign of a bigger problem.
The yeast is just the messenger — and a helpful one at that, since it actually cleans up the excreted waste, by consuming it.
Rather than try to kill the yeast with antifungal medication, take a holistic view: look to resolve the cause of the toxicity/excess waste.
This usually means optimizing the diet or removing the toxic exposures.
Once this is done, the body will stop using the skin as its emergency pressure-release valve. Accordingly, the yeast falls back to normal levels.
Is Your Boxer Living His Best Life?
Supercanine is your how-to guide for understanding why your dog has the health niggles he does, and how to heal them before they progress into a full-blown crisis.
If you want to know how to raise a healthy, long-lived wigglebutt free of allergies, itch, acne, “yeasty” ears, paw gnawing, stomach problems and all the other afflictions chalked up to “just part of the breed”, this is the book for you. No more vets, potions or complicated regimes. Just simple yet powerful tweaks you can make to your dog’s care to transform his health.
How Not To Trim Your Boxer’s Nails
Some owners deliberately run their dogs on concrete in order to “file” their nails.
While this may work to a degree, there are too many drawbacks for it to be a viable approach.
Running on hard surfaces can damage your dog’s joints, setting him up for arthritis and other disorders.
Far safer to teach your dog to tolerate nail trimming.
Boxer Grooming Needs
Besides nail care, Boxers are easy care dogs thanks to their very short, tight fitting coats.
All the same, your dog will appreciate a brush down at least once a week, to remove loose hairs, stimulate the circulation and promote lymphatic drainage.
A mitt or Dog Grooming Glove is perfect for this, rather than a brush.
Your dog will enjoy the massage.
Since Boxers shed quite a bit, regular brushing also helps to reduce how much fur or “Boxer glitter” ends up on your floors and furniture.